The importance of a motorcycle safety check-over can never be stressed enough. Not enough riders are aware of how to perform a proper inspection or when to do it. There are two types of safety checks that I recommend. The daily and the bi-weekly check over.

The daily check over is the inspection you give your motorcycle prior to each ride. Before you get on your bike, start with a walkaround inspection. Visually scan the motorcycle for anything out of place. Look for missing hardware, loose components, or broken lenses. This might sound silly, but items frequently loosen and break due to a motorcycles' vibrations. Are the tires visibly low on air? Are there any obstructions in or around the wheels? During the walkaround I always like to squat for a second at each wheel. I consider the tires, wheels, brakes and drivetrain to be the most important parts to check and like to get a closer look at each. Once the walkaround is complete, check the fuel level, and your motorcycle's safety equipment. This should include all lights, switches, turn signals, and horn. Adjust your mirrors, helmet and eye protection. If you have completed all of this you're ready to ride. If you complete this before every ride, you are helping to insure that every ride is a safe ride.

The bi-weekly check over is recommended for the normal daily rider. If you ride more or less, adjust your intervals accordingly. The purpose of this inspection is to monitor normal wear items that may expire or need adjustment between regular services. The most common components are the tires, brakes, drive train, battery and engine oil. Most owners manuals have instructions for checking and adjusting each of these items. If yours doesn't or you need further information purchase a repair manual, a valuable resource for any motorcyclist.

You already visually check your tires before each ride, but now is when you check and adjust the pressures. Use a good quality gauge and while you are down there, look closely for any cracking or bulges. Take note of the remaining tread depth.

Motorcycle brake pads are designed to last as long as normal service intervals. The reality is, the rate of wear depends more on riding style and conditions than a set mileage. It is imperative that they be checked regularly between normal service intervals. For this, grab a bright flashlight and consult your manual for wear specifications.

The typical motorcycle drive train consists of a chain and two sprockets. The sprockets rarely fail between services, but the chain is constantly stretching and in need of lubrication. The motorcycle needs to have it's rear wheel off the ground to properly lube and adjust the chain. With a centerstand or rear stand, a few tools and proper specs., any motorcyclist should be able to service their own chain. In doing this, the life of the chain and sprockets will greatly increase while the chances of failure will decrease.

Most riders assume that their motorcycle charging system maintains the battery sufficiently. Ideally this is true, but its not always the case. The majority of battery usage occurs when starting your motorcycle. Short trips may not always allow your battery enough time to fully recharge. Add in a few accessories like a radio, heated vest or a GPS and your battery may always be lagging. If you are not regularly plugging your motorcycle into a battery tender, consider giving it a charge at this bi-weekly inspection.

All motorcycles consume oil at slightly different rates. It is important to keep an eye on the level. Consult your owners manual for the proper checking procedure. This can vary widely between models.

Finally, make sure you pass inspection as well. Is all of your riding gear in good shape? Is your vehicle registration up to date and your insurance policy current? Proper preparation and a little preventive maintenance can go far in increasing the safety and enjoyment of riding your motorcycle.

Many motorcyclists find themselves with new dilemmas that they have probably never experienced in the past. One of these is trying to tie down their bike which allows them to transport their expensive motorcycle safely. However, there are only a few tried and true methods to make sure a motorcycle can be transported without any issues.

Here is a list of basic equipment needed for securing a motorcycle for transportation/hauling: (4) high strength/good quality ratchet straps (2) ratchets and (2) cam buckle straps will do, however the preferred method is via (4) ratchet straps), and (4) soft loops. (Soft loops are special straps that keep the hooks of your cam/ratchet straps away from your bike to prevent scratching during the trip.)

Please note, when purchasing your straps please pay close attention to buckle section as it should be a nice strong metal with the preferred tooth style strap gripping plate. Now that you have the required items begin the tie-down process as outlined below.

Step 1: Once bike is in the truck or trailer, wrap soft loop around base of Left handle bar and place hook end of strap through soft loop and secure other hook of strap to secure spot in truck or trailer, pull slack out of strap and ratchet a few times, repeat for Right handle bar.

Step 2: Once both Ratchet straps are in place, tighten each snugly so that bike will sit in the upright position on its own. BE SURE TO NOT COMPRESS THE FRONT FORKS, SERIOUS DAMAGE MAY OCCUR TO SUSPENSION OF BIKE (see owners manual).

Step 3: Now for the rear of the bike. Find a stable member of the bike and wrap soft loop around and secure in same fashion as front (because each bike is a little different there is not just one specific spot to wrap the soft loop.)

Step 4: Periodically check tightness and condition of straps and load before and during trip, to ensure stability.

Step 5 Optional: The use of a wheel chock is a great security feature for your bike. If you choose to use one position straps so that they are pulling the bike in the forward position against the wheel chock.

DD motorcycle exhausts are very popular aftermarket exhausts with many bikers. D&D was started in 1972 by David Rash after he made an exhaust for his own bike. Well, 30+ years later, the technology has greatly improved, but the basic idea remains--the D&D exhaust is a high quality, high performance exhaust.

DD motorcycle exhausts have 3 main components:
1. First, you have the headpipe, which bolts to the head and funnels all the gases out of the engine. That empties into...
2. The midpipe: this is where design is very critical for maximum flow.
3. Finally, you have the silencer, which muffles the sound and sparks. D&D offers several types and styles of silencers to suit individual needs.

Typically, an aftermarket motorcycle exhaust is an easy and affordable way to get improved performance from your bike. In addition to performance, you also get a look and sound that makes your bike unique.
Some things you should consider before buying a DD motorcycle exhaust:
o How the exhaust mounting system is going to affect the rear footpegs. Some systems require their removal, which means no more riding with a passenger.
o Performance: the thought of bolting on a no-name, big-bore motorcycle exhaust might sound good, but if the exhaust wasn't tested and tuned, chances are you'll actually hurt your horsepower. Try to get a dyno sheet on a particular exhaust that compares stock to the new exhaust to make sure you're getting extra horses for your money.
o Check your carb jetting. It may sound odd, but the carbs are jetted to work with the stock exhaust, so when you change the exhaust, the carb should be adjusted accordingly. Most shops can do this inexpensively, so don't skimp on this step.

Motorcycle track days have become wildly popular events, allowing motorcyclists to ride their motorcycles to the limits in a controlled environment. This is much safer than carving up the local public roads, but it takes the effort of the participants and track day organizers to insure that each track day is as safe as possible. Everyone involved should be aware of their responsibilities regarding rider and motorcycle preparation.

Regarding rider preparation, all track days require the same basic personal safety gear. Leather motorcycle suit, proper motorcycle helmet, gauntlet gloves and boots that cover the ankles. Most track day organizers will examine each participant’s gear and helmet when they check in. Proper rider safety, however, is ultimately the responsibility of each rider. One thing that’s hard for track day organizers to examine is the mental and physical fitness of each rider.

The morning rider briefing should make mention of rider fitness, but it’s up to everyone to monitor their own condition at all times throughout the day.

•Get plenty of sleep the night before and eat a good breakfast in the morning.

•Riding a motorcycle on the track is physically demanding. Stretch in the morning to warm up.

•Riding a motorcycle on the track is mentally demanding as well. Focus on the task at hand.

•When you aren’t on the track stay in the shade and get some rest, even catch a nap during lunch.

•Don’t feel like you have to ride in all of your sessions. By the end of the day, those twenty minute sessions will have added up to two hours on the track.

Fatigue and dehydration are leading causes of track day accidents. Stay alert and aware of your condition at all times. Don’t ride beyond your abilities and pull in early if you feel tired or begin making mistakes.

Proper rider preparation is key to a safe and enjoyable track day. Track day motorcycle preparation is just as important. Check back soon for Part II about properly preparing your motorcycle for the track.

Discussing intuition doesn't sound very scientific, but I’ll bet that a lot of veteran riders will agree that developing a good sense of when to trust your instincts is an integral part staying safer out there.

As a newer ride, I first bought a Honda 250 to learn on. It was a perfect starter bike—small, easy to ride, confidence inspiring. And I rode it a lot.

One summer afternoon, I convinced the bosses that it was a crime for me to remain at work any longer that day. After pleading my case and counting the number of Saturdays I’d logged over the winter, they sprung me, and at 2:00 pm I headed out for a nice long ride along the shores of Lake Ontario.

Everything was perfect: the sun was high and warm, the lake kept the temperature at a very pleasant 80 degrees. Traffic was light, and I settled into a very comfortable ride, enjoying the speed and the scenery and the feeling that I was getting to play hooky for the afternoon.

My trip out was uneventful. I hit the little town of Sodus, NY, and got purposely lost on the many back roads around the little town until I managed to find my way back there by dinner time. After a enjoying great burger on a deck overlooking the bay I decided to head back for home.

I took a slightly different route back, not wanting to bore myself with the same ride home as I had taken out. This route hit several more small towns and villages than my ride out, so, of course, there were many more stop lights and intersections to be handled.

About three quarters of the way home I ended up missing second gear after taking off from a stoplight not just once but three separate times. Sure I was a newer rider, but even I could manage to shift from 1st to 2nd with reasonable ease. Something just wasn’t right.

But I got through most of the other stops without trouble, so I paid no attention to my gut and kept riding.

However, a few stoplights from home I was forced to pay attention to my gut. I attempted to downshift as I approached a light, and panicked more than just a little when I couldn’t find the shifter. I quickly realized it had come detached from the bike! Luckily there was no one in front or behind me, and I could simply slow down, stop, and walk the bike to the side of the road.

Had I listened to my gut earlier, I would have pulled over and inspected the bike. Missing those shifts was weird, and caused my instincts to prickle. I thought the shifter felt a little funny, but I just pressed on anyway. If I had pulled over, I would have noticed that one of the bolts that attaches the shifter to the frame was starting to work itself loose. My little Honda 250 buzzed like a swarm of angry bees at speeds above 60 mph. After several hours of that kind of workout my hands and feet would go numb from the vibration. The 250 was not meant to be a touring bike. And just as I was being jostled and vibrated, so was every component on the bike. Nuts and bolts were literally working themselves loose, and my shifter was the first (and luckily, last) thing to go.

My missing shifter was what it took for me to listen to the voices that were saying “Something is wrong. Pull over.” I should have listened way sooner, and I’m glad I get to tell this story and not one that involves something more serious, like crashing.

Other riders report times when they simply abandon a ride because “they just don’t feel right” about it. I myself have since done the same thing. Not because anything concrete presented itself, but just because my gut said “Go home.”

Suffice it to say I listen to my inner voice more now. I’ve learned to trust my instincts not just when they tell me something is wrong, but also when they tell me everything is fine, too.

Are you in the market for a motorcycle, but have bad credit and need a high risk motorcycle loan? Well don’t worry the goal of this article is provide you everything you need to know about getting approved for a high risk motorcycle loan.

First you must understand how motorcycle lenders go about classifying you as high risk. On the average, when a motorcycle lender is looking to approve any motorcycle financing they have a much higher cut off in the credit score range than an auto lender. This exists whether you have good or bad credit.

So with that said an auto lender may approve a FICO credit score of 610 as not a high risk, but a motorcycle lender would most likely classify a FICO credit score of 610 as a high risk motorcycle loan and may not offer an approval on it.

There are two reasons for this:

1. Motorcycles are much harder to repossess in good condition than an automobile. As a result of this simple fact, if you default on your motorcycle loan it is a higher risk to the motorcycle lender than an automobile lender because it is much harder to repossess a motorcycle in good condition than a car.

With all the new motorcycle riders entering the industry there is a high incident of some form of minor or major damage on many motorcycles, which translates in to a lower amount per unit a lender gets when they repossess a motorcycle for a customer that chooses to get bad credit over paying for their motorcycle loan. The damage could be from the repossession agency or the actual owner but the simple fact is motorcycle fetch much less at repossession auctions than automobiles.

This simple fact is one reason good and poor credit motorcycle loans are offered at much higher interest rates than a car and has an overall lower approval percentages when compared with cars.

2. The average motorcycle tends to depreciate very fast. Since motorcycles have higher accident rates and there are many people who once they crash do not pay off their loan, this results in higher defaults for motorcycle lenders. This is another reason motorcycle loan rates are higher and motorcycles are hard to get approved for.

Ok, now that you have a background in how a motorcycle lender views a motorcycle loan, let’s look at how you can get approved for a high risk motorcycle loan.

Step one is to really understand your credit report and credit score. Sure if you are looking for high risk motorcycle financing, you probably have had some credit issues in the past. But you never know how those credit issues played out on your credit report until you get a copy of it.

Take a look and make sure everything reported on your credit report is actually true. See every year 1000s of people just like you find creditors made errors on their credit report, which negativity impacted their credit score. If your FICO score shows a 610, but there is 1 error on your credit report you could easily raise your FICO credit score to 625 or higher by getting the error fixed. Always get errors fixed on your credit report before you submit a high risk motorcycle loan application.

Step two is to clean up your credit card debt. I know you are probably thinking I can not do this, but it can make a huge difference in helping you get approved for high risk motorcycle financing. See motorcycle lenders do not like to see your personal credit cards maxed out. Therefore, before you submit your application for motorcycle financing you should try to pay down your credit card debt. Even if you have to do it for the short term it can help you tremendously with getting approved.

For instance, if you have a 610 FICO credit score you will probably be declined if you have all your credit cards maxed out. However, if you are able reduce your credit card debt by 50% you stand a much better chance of getting approved for a high risk motorcycle loan. This is a simple concept but you will be surprised by how many motorcycle buyers fail to do this and never get approved.

Step three and the final step is too finally submit your motorcycle loan application. There are many lenders that specialize in high risk motorcycle loans. I recommend tying about 2 or 3 online motorcycle lenders and then move to your local credit unions or financing provide by the dealership such as Suzuki Finance, Honda Financing, Kawasaki Credit Card or the Polaris Star Card.

The world of used motorcycle loans is traditionally confusing to many motorcycle buyers involved with purchasing a used motorcycle but it does not have to be if you are equipped with a bit of knowledge.

When looking for used motorcycle financing, you should first consider where you will purchase the motorcycle from. For instance, will you purchase from a dealer, an individual or a vehicle auctions?

This could highly affect your used motorcycle loan decision and the direction you will choose to focus your energy with getting your loan worked out.

Here are some things to consider with each option:

1. Auction Purchase: If you are thinking of purchasing your used motorcycle at an auction it is highly recommend that you have your cash ready to buy ahead of time. Therefore, if you are going to finance the used motorcycle from the auction you will need to line up the financing first as most auctions do not offer financing.

There are several online motorcycle lenders offer used motorcycle loans, so this is a good option. Basically these motorcycle lenders will approve you online and then send you a check for the amount you are approved for to purchase your motorcycle.

Another option for your auction purchase may be to get check your local credit union for used motorcycle loans. Sometime the credit union may offer it under a personal loan but it is all the same.

2. Individual Purchase: An individual purchase will work similar to an auction purchase.

You will need cash in hand to make the purchase so you will have to line up your used motorcycle financing first before the actual purchase. Online motorcycle lenders or your local bank and credit union can help you with this and send you a cashier’s check.

Most individuals prefer a cashiers check or money order so be sure to ask them before you drive all the way to their house to make the purchase.

3. Dealer Purchase: With a dealer purchase you will have a variety of options for used motorcycle loans.

You can still choose to use online motorcycle lenders as they tend to have highly competitive motorcycle loan rates or you can use the dealerships financing. They can get you approved fast and money in your hand in 24 hours typically so making the purchase is simple. You will not have to go to the dealer and wait an hour while they do all the paperwork.

Dealers normally offer consumer financing through GE Capital (AKA GE Money) or HSBC Retail Services which is an option as well. These offers could be on a credit card or a standard installment loan and you motorcycle loan rate will be based on your credit history.

Don’t forget about your credit union and local banks as they can handle dealer purchased as well.

In the end financing a used motorcycle does not have to be difficult, you can easily use online motorcycle lenders for used motorcycle loans at competitive rates or even choose a dealer or local credit union. Online motorcycle lenders may prove to be the best option because you can arrange them in the comfort of your own home without waiting hours in a bank or dealer.

According to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), when comparing a automobile to a motorcycle rider the motorcycle rider has a 35 percent greater chance of getting hurt or dying in a automobile accident compared to a driver in a automobile. When wearing a helmet it is less likely that the motorcyclists will receive a serious head injury and more likely to survive the accident according to the The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration.

Safety helmets for motorcycle users are the law in many states, optional in others. Especially so if the helmet is rated for safety and is properly fit to the wearer. Safety is what it's all about right.

When wearing a motorcycle helmet it will protect your head against the following, it protects your face, your ears and you are able to have an intercom system to talk to others. A helmet protects your head and your face from injuries. There are many different types of helmets ranging from helmets that have a face guard and helmets that have an open face so you can feel the wind on your face, helmets can be customized to your specifications. Looking for full face helmets can be a challenge. On helmets the face shield can retract by lifting up and down.

Because Motorcycles lack the protection of other vehicles, such as a car or truck, severe injury is much more likely. For comfort and protection they generally have fabric and foam interiors. Motorcycle helmets act as a protection device for your head.

When looking at helmets to purchase don’t let the price determine which helmet you will purchase, you will need to look at the protection factor it can provide and how it is rated. Helmet design considerations are all about the tolerable impact the head can handle, which the soft linings provide as protection, and the exterior protection from punctures.

When trying on a helmet press down on the helmet and make sure that it fits properly and it feels comfortable and check to see if it surrounds your entire head. Before putting a helmet on a child, it is a good idea to check for defects such as cracks, loose padding, frayed straps or exposed metal that could be unsafe for the child.

Even if you don’t choose to wear a motorcycle helmet for safety reasons, there are other reasons. With many designs and makers to choose from, you would surely have your hands full finding one that you will like. There are a lot of motorcycle helmets you can choose from. The designs are made to match the likings of the women to provide more appeal.

Safety helmets successfully reduce the chances of head injury to a great extent. For instance, according to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration has estimated in a report that if you do not wear a helmet there is a 40% chance that the rider will suffer a head injury and a 15% chance of it being a fatal head injury.

Motorcycle sound systems have come a long way in the past couple of years. We all like to hear the wind and rumble of our bikes, but if we are riding for a few hours it's nice to hear some tunes to help the miles roll by.

In the past the choices for motorcycle sound systems have been somewhat limited. Bulky am/fm radios with less-than-spectacular speakers often provided more grief and inconsistent reception than they were worth.

Well, that has changed for the better with the modern electronic revolution. With the advent of i-pods, satellite radio, and MP-3 players, the music of our choice is more available than ever.

The current offerings of sound systems vary widely but most offer better performance than even the top of the line models of just a few years ago.

There are several things to consider when looking at motorcycle sound systems. The ability to plug in your MP-3, satellite radio, and i-pod provides a lot more flexibility in your sound system.

Typically, if you are going on a road trip outside of your usual haunts your standard am/fm radio will be losing channels and you'll need to search for more.

If your sound system incorporates the new technologies you'll be able to listen to your favorite tunes for miles and miles without monkeying around with channel surfing.

Another advancement is the sound delivery system. Gone are the old speakers that strained to deliver clear, crisp sound at 60 mph. New external speakers are driven by small yet powerful amps that deliver clear crisp sound at any speed.

Another excellent advance is the in-helmet audio. The current offerings provide an excellent sound with no external speakers to clog up space on your bike.

Whatever system you choose, just keep in mind that technology will be constantly advancing so if you can get a system that is flexible it will allow you to upgrade as new technologies become available.

Bajaj returns….

The launch of bajaj kristal

The win over Hero Honda (remains the market leader in 100cc segment) in 125cc (with Bajaj discover) and 150cc (with Bajaj pulsar) motorcycle (geared ones) segment does not come without a compromise for Bajaj, it loss it’s scooterette market (once Bajaj Chetak was known as scooter of India) to Honda activa and Hero Honda pleasure. Bajaj is set to regain the scooterette market with Kristal and Blade.

Can Kristal meet its peers?

Honda entered the scooterette market with the 102-cc gearless Activa in 2001. Activa is the market leader in the segment and sells nearly 28,000 units a month. Hero Honda rolled out its first 100cc gearless scooter the “Pleasure” across India in 2005, is proved to be a successful model. Bajaj is going to launch a full-size scooter Blade for men (could feature a 150cc engine), which will compete with the Kinetic Blaze (India’s first maxi scooter-featuring 165cc engine). Bajaj launched its new 95cc scooter Kristal targeting the fair sex (women)

Scooterette are widely used by ladies, hence it demands greater style, light weight, hassle free, greater comfort, good luggage space for shopping compromises can be made on power, mileage and price for the sake of rest.

Kristal features DTSi (digital twin spark ignition), exhausTEC (torque expansion chamber) and SNS (spring-in spring) suspension system.

Ride and comfort:

The Kristal’s engine is a 95cc unit, which puts out a peak power of 7.2 PS at 7,500 rpm and a maximum torque of 7.7Nm at 5,500 rpm. ExhausTEC and DTSi enable it to achieve a better fuel efficiency with lesser pollution. The Kristal also features a one-speed variomatic gearbox. Kristal clocks a top speed of about 75 kmph. Kristal is on par with its peers scooty pep plus and HH pleasure to offer a combined mileage of 48kpl.

Kristal features leading link with co-axial shock absorber &spring at the front and SNS at the back. Kristal’s broad and soft-foam seat makes it comfortable and supportive. Handlebar grips, made of soft and durable rubber, have been designed to give the rider a comfortable feel. Vibration transfer is well contained during speeding, but at idling there is still considerable vibration, though the handlebar grips do a good job of dampening much of it.

Design and dimensions:

When comes to design practicality predominates the style. Thoughtfully made plastic panels at the front are practical enough to save your scooter from scratches. Instrument cluster features a fuel gauge, speedometer, analog distance counter, indicators for the side stand, turn lights and for the high-beam. Kristal weighs about 99 kg and with ground clearance of 131mm makes it easy to handle. With the widest wheelbase (highest in its class) of 1250 mm it makes lot of foot space. With an under seat storage space of 22 litres and an appreciable front glove box space make Kristal a shopping bike.

Special features

It is the special features which make the vehicle a cut over the rest and are good enough to lure the ladies. Kristal does away with the choke it features an electrically operated fuel pump/feeder which eases the starting engine at cold condition. It has the unique Front Fueling system that ensures a convenient refueling to the rider by avoiding the bother of getting off the vehicle while re-fuelling. Kristal provides automatic headlamp controlled by a sensor which senses low light conditions and switches on the parking lamp and it also lights up the instrument cluster, prompting the rider to also turn on the main headlamp. Penta-lock (five) facility –ignition lock, petrol tank cap, side lock, accelerator lock and seat lock shows the producer interest on practicality of the Kristal. A bulb to light up the storage area (only offered in scooty pep plus) and a beeper prevents the seat from accidentally closing at a fuel station and protects your child from crushing fingers. Accelerator lock and side stand alarm offers you better safety.

Choosing the right Motorcycle helmet can make a difference….

….literally between life and death. But how does an ordinary guy in the street make an informed decision about what kind of helmets give the best protection? There are so many makes, models and styles. Not to mention DOT approved, Snell approved, ECE approved! It is enough to make you go goggle eyed when confronted with so much information.

Tests have shown that it is perfectly possible to suffer a fatal injury falling off a stationary bike if you hit your unprotected head on the kerb, so clearly choosing the right helmet is important.

But which one?

Wouldn’t it be easier if someone just said, “Look, when you are in a crash, you need to protect this part of you head, because this is the part that is most likely to get hurt”…

Well that’s what I thought. But it wasn’t that easy. The kind of information you need to make that kind of call requires someone, somewhere to look at a whole bunch of motorcycle crashes, look at the motorcycle helmet damage, assess where point of impact occurred and put the information into a form that allows ordinary motorcyclists (like you and me) to make a decision for themselves.

However, the good news is that if you look hard enough, the information is available. A study was carried out a few years ago by Deitmar Otte, at the Medizinsche Hochschule in Hannover, Germany on the damage incurred to helmets worn by motorcyclists involved in accidents. His analysis was extremely detailed; in fact it was far to detailed for me to go into here, but it was extremely important.

What I am going to do is tell you in a nutshell, what parts of your head are most likely to be hurt in a motorcycle accident, based on Herr Otte’s findings. The rest is up to you…

Take a motorcycle helmet and look at it from the front. Now imagine it is divided into three sections; the top (the cranium area) the middle (the area most likely covered by the visor) and the bottom (on a full face helmet, this would be the chin guard area). If you were involved in a motorcycle accident, and you hit your head you would have a 35% chance of the impact occurring to your chin area, 10% to your visor area, and 22% chance of the impact occurring to your front cranium area.

Now turn the helmet around. Looking at it from the back, divide it in two down the middle. In an accident, if you hit you head, you have a 16% chance of impact occurring on the back of you head to the left side, and a 17% chance of impact occurring on the back right side.

Conclusion? Well, this is only my personal conclusion but I would say the following…

The safest helmets are full face helmets…

Second would be three quarter helmets with visors…

Third would be half helmets…

Last would be novelty helmets.

There are lots of reasons people wear helmets. However, if safety is you main consideration, then take a good look at the full face helmets on the market, take some time and find one which you can wear comfortably on every ride.

German inventors Gottlieb Daimler and Wilhelm Maybach first developed motorcycles in 1885. It was a revolutionary petroleum-powered means of transportation that had provisions for a pair of stabilizing wheels. It came to be known as the riding car. Former models were large, bulky and had poor handling capabilities. Development of motorcycles began to progress after the First World War that saw extensive use of motorcycles, especially by Germans. These models were made with the help of new internal combustion engines that many manufacturers and producers of bicycles adapted in their designs.

Motorcycles were widely used as an economical solution to deal with rising prices of transportation. Prices of motorcycles were high at that time but yielded better returns over a period of time. As new internal combustion engines became additionally powerful and designs outgrew its bicycle origins, the number of motorcycle producers reduced. India was the largest manufacturer of motorcycles until Harley Davidson launched its bikes in the market in 1928.

Motorcycles are moderately complicated machines that make use of a "chassis" to support other parts of the bike, a "fairing" to mask the front end of the handle, "suspensions" to absorb shocks and reduce wear and tear of the motorcycle, wheels, an engine, a transmission, and brakes. These are a few basic elements of a bike, along with some more technical mechanics involved, such as oil tank, chains, odometers, and so on. The engine comes in two variants where one of them is a popular option for most due to its simple usage.

Automatic Motorcycles eliminate the hassle of frequently changing gears during traffic or other stops. Nevertheless, manual transmission is preferred as it is more economical that the automatic transmission models. Auto transmission feature takes a toll on the fuel consumption of the bike. Young people find it easy to use automatic Motorcycles because this operation is less complicated and the performance is comparable for limited use.

While purchasing an Automatic Motorcycle it is advisable to opt for a 4-stroke engine as it provides better fuel economy.

The best motorcycle for a woman is dependent on your body and skill level. Women are as varied in terms of experience and stature as men.

What should you look for in a bike? Size and stature are one of the first things to consider. You want to be comfortable straddling and controlling your bike.

The weight and seat height of your bike are the two most important things to consider. It is not enjoyable or confidence inspiring to be riding a bike that is bigger and heavier than you are comfortable with.

Elena and I recently took a motorcycle safety foundation (MSF) basic rider course to see if we could further our riding level. The bikes used in the course were 250cc street cruisers. The Honda Rebel and Suzuki GZ250 were the bikes of choice. (The Rebel is also a 250cc bike.)

These bikes would provide a nice platform for your first bike. The benefits of these bikes include light weight, low seat height, and easy maneuverability. Elena felt very comfortable on the Suzuki. We even practiced picking the bike up off the ground, and she did it with ease (there is a trick to lifting a bike easily).

The thing that Elena really liked about these bikes is that they have the classic cruiser look (chrome and metal), yet they are light and easy to use for a beginner biker.

Additionally, these bikes are nearly bulletproof. The "mules" that we used in class were dropped and abused regularly. But they were surprisingly resilient.

The Honda and Suzuki bikes are also known for their reliability and low cost of ownership--real plusses if you don't want the hassle or cost of repairs.

The first bike that you buy is going to be a learning tool that will go through some ups and downs, so don't buy that super-special bike of your dreams for your first bike. Instead, buy one that will allow you to build confidence and improve your riding ability. The Honda Rebel and Suzuki GZ250 will provide the best balance of looks, reliability, and ease of use.

The importance of a motorcycle safety check-over can never be stressed enough. Not enough riders are aware of how to perform a proper inspection or when to do it. There are two types of safety checks that I recommend. The daily and the bi-weekly check over.

The daily check over is the inspection you give your motorcycle prior to each ride. Before you get on your bike, start with a walkaround inspection. Visually scan the motorcycle for anything out of place. Look for missing hardware, loose components, or broken lenses. This might sound silly, but items frequently loosen and break due to a motorcycles' vibrations. Are the tires visibly low on air? Are there any obstructions in or around the wheels? During the walkaround I always like to squat for a second at each wheel. I consider the tires, wheels, brakes and drivetrain to be the most important parts to check and like to get a closer look at each. Once the walkaround is complete, check the fuel level, and your motorcycle's safety equipment. This should include all lights, switches, turn signals, and horn. Adjust your mirrors, helmet and eye protection. If you have completed all of this you're ready to ride. If you complete this before every ride, you are helping to insure that every ride is a safe ride.

The bi-weekly check over is recommended for the normal daily rider. If you ride more or less, adjust your intervals accordingly. The purpose of this inspection is to monitor normal wear items that may expire or need adjustment between regular services. The most common components are the tires, brakes, drive train, battery and engine oil. Most owners manuals have instructions for checking and adjusting each of these items. If yours doesn't or you need further information purchase a repair manual, a valuable resource for any motorcyclist.

You already visually check your tires before each ride, but now is when you check and adjust the pressures. Use a good quality gauge and while you are down there, look closely for any cracking or bulges. Take note of the remaining tread depth.

Motorcycle brake pads are designed to last as long as normal service intervals. The reality is, the rate of wear depends more on riding style and conditions than a set mileage. It is imperative that they be checked regularly between normal service intervals. For this, grab a bright flashlight and consult your manual for wear specifications.

The typical motorcycle drive train consists of a chain and two sprockets. The sprockets rarely fail between services, but the chain is constantly stretching and in need of lubrication. The motorcycle needs to have it's rear wheel off the ground to properly lube and adjust the chain. With a centerstand or rear stand, a few tools and proper specs., any motorcyclist should be able to service their own chain. In doing this, the life of the chain and sprockets will greatly increase while the chances of failure will decrease.

Most riders assume that their motorcycle charging system maintains the battery sufficiently. Ideally this is true, but its not always the case. The majority of battery usage occurs when starting your motorcycle. Short trips may not always allow your battery enough time to fully recharge. Add in a few accessories like a radio, heated vest or a GPS and your battery may always be lagging. If you are not regularly plugging your motorcycle into a battery tender, consider giving it a charge at this bi-weekly inspection.

All motorcycles consume oil at slightly different rates. It is important to keep an eye on the level. Consult your owners manual for the proper checking procedure. This can vary widely between models.

Finally, make sure you pass inspection as well. Is all of your riding gear in good shape? Is your vehicle registration up to date and your insurance policy current? Proper preparation and a little preventive maintenance can go far in increasing the safety and enjoyment of riding your motorcycle.

There is some great looking motorcycle clothing on the market these days, but believe me not all of the motorcycle clothing offers as much protection as you think. In Europe, for motorcycle clothing to be lawfully sold as “safety" clothing, it has to pass a series of European standards, which are pretty lengthy but are available on my website. The standards cover the clothing’s performance in abrasion, tearing and impact tests, and when they have passed; they are sold with the CE mark. However, no such regulation is available in the USA, so what should you look for?

Protection in the right places…

Not many people realise that most motorcycle injuries occur below the belt. Your legs and feet are extremely vulnerable, so make sure that you wear a decent pair of high boots and some protective pants. The pants should be reinforced at the knees and hips; ideally they should attach to your jacket by a zipper. Boots should be thick leather, with a sole that can flex with the foot but has a resistance to crushing across the foot.

Traditional material for motorcycle clothing is leather, but thick nylon and other synthetic materials work well too. Kevlar reinforced jeans are better than normal jeans .Normal jeans last 0.6 seconds in the European standard abrasion test, while protective motorcycle pants will last 5 seconds or more. You don’t really want to be ripping your skin open within less than half a second of falling of your bike do you? Thought not.

Same principles apply to jackets. Make sure they are hardwearing, if they are leather make sure it is thick leather not fashion leather like some jackets. Stitching should be uniform with no dropped stitches, and all your “sharp bits”, your elbows and shoulders should be reinforced, ideally with some impact protection included.

A decent pair of gloves is a must; your palms will be at risk in an accident; you instinctively put out your hands palm side down to stop yourself in a slide, so the palms of your gloves should be reinforced with patches. Knitted Kevlar is especially good for this kind of abrasion resistance, but reinforced leather works well too.

Impact protection can be bought separately like back protectors and so on, but remember where your most vulnerable areas are. And make sure if you buy impact protection you actually wear it! If you have any doubts it may be better to go for motorcycle clothing with a degree of impact protection included so that you know when you put on your jacket and pants, the protection is always going to be there.

Last but not least, pick out a helmet you can wear and wear it always. You may have a greater chance of getting injured below the waist in a motorcycle accident, but the consequences of being involved in an accident without a helmet just don’t bear thinking about….

So, next time you are shopping for motorcycle clothing, give a bit of thought to the level of protection it offers before you buy it. You never know it could save you a lot of unnecessary pain!

Repossessed motorcycle auction have a couple of benefits for both the consumer and the seller. First, through the auction you will be certain that the price at that given time is the highest for that particular motorcycle. So as a seller you're guaranteed, in a way, of the best profit for your sale.

Meanwhile, for the consumers the auction is a great place to acquire cheap motorcycles that are in great shape and if you're really lucky, you will even get a repossessed motorcycle that's close to being brand new. A brand new motorcycle will cost you quite a fortune. That's why the best option for you is get a used bike in a repossessed motorcycle auction.

There are a lot of public auctions out there where you could get your bike at dirt cheap prices. But the best deals are actually found in government seized auctions. A repossessed motorcycle auction features motorcycles, dirt bikes and atv's that were seized by the government from owners involved in unlawful activities. You can find these kinds of auctions happening in all parts of the country.

It is held yearly, monthly or even weekly depending on the place. So you need to keep an eye out for these kinds of auctions if you really want to have a bike that is cheap. Now, the main reason why repossessed motorcycle auction offers cheap motorcycles is that the government agency got the bikes for free and they will really want to get rid of them for whatever price possible since it is quite expensive to store the vehicles and their departments would appreciate the additional cash for their budget.

There are some things that you need to remember when buying from a repossessed motorcycle auction. Just like when buying cars from auction events, you need to inspect carefully the motorcycles that are up for bid.

Come early on the auction date so you have enough time to inspect the items thoroughly. Plus, by going early you avoid the rush of people and will not be pressured or bothered when you conduct your own inspections.

Also, before you go to a repossessed motorcycle auction you need to have at least an idea of the price range of the items that are up for bid. This means you need to be familiar with the kinds of motorcycles and their current market value. Market value includes if the motorcycle is brand new and the retail value if it has been used or reconditioned.

Remember too that you need to set for yourself the highest price you will bid for the bike and once you've decided you better stick with it regardless of how much you liked the motorcycle. If you don't, you will be engaged in a bidding war that will end up with you paying more than what the bike was worth in the first place. Don't get caught with the pace. Go there with your own style and your own pace.

Don't settle for a single repossessed motorcycle auction, there are a lot of auctions out there especially online. So before you go on a scheduled auction, visit a couple of online auctions first to get an idea on how the prices of the motorcycles fare.

You never now, you might find a product that is cheaper especially in an unpopular auction due to the less number of bidders. Preparation is always the key when you opt to buy your motorcycle in a repossessed motorcycle auction event.

The cold weather is upon us. Here in northern Florida the winter weather is snow free but the air has become chilly and the sun is not as strong as the rest of the year.

We love to ride in the winter here but we have to pull out our winter gear to keep things comfy. The trick to keeping things warm in the winter is layers and moisture control. A good set of cotton or other absorbant type of material is the best for skin contact

The first layer of clothing that actually contacts your skin should wick moisture away. This is the most important layer. We all sweat and if the layer of cloth that contacts our skin doesn't absorb and draw it away from our body than we will get cold and wet in a hurry.

Shirts and pants should be loose fitting and comfortable. A comfortable pair of jeans and a sweatshirt will provide another layer of absorbant warm clothing

The next layer is where a good set of electrically heated clothing could really chase the chill away. The selection of jackets, gloves, and socks will be sure to satisfy all your needs and wants. There are a lot of gloves, coats, and socks that are excellent products that provide adjustable heating temps to satisfy your changing needs.

The next layer should provide wind protection and warmth. A good set of riding leathers should fit the bill. Leathers not only provide wind protection and insulation, but it also provides the abrasion protection that we expect from them.

Many of us live in areas not conducive to riding a motorcycle rear round. I know there are die-hards out there who will ride in anything, all year, I used to be one of them, rain, snow, negative temperatures, you name it. Today, however, I prefer to ride my motorcycle when the conditions are more favorable. I enjoy riding more when there are less hazards and warmer temperatures. This means that every year, just like thousands of others, I roll my motorcycle into its winter nesting place, the back of my garage.

Storing a motorcycle is not as simple as rolling it into the back of a garage though, at least if you want a effortless start to the new riding season. It doesn't have to be hard either. Just a few steps and you can insure that your motorcycle will be ready when you are.

The first and most important step would be care of your motorcycle battery. Over time motorcycle batteries slowly discharge. You might have experienced the effects on your battery after your motorcycle sat for just a week or two. Imagine if you left it alone for an entire winter. Your battery would surely be dead and depending on its age and condition before storage, it might not ever take a charge again. Buying and installing a new battery in your motorcycle on the first day of good riding weather is an easily avoidable situation. Keep your motorcycle battery charged.

In the past one would have to charge the battery periodically during the storage period. Today we have battery chargers that offer a low rate of charge only as needed by the battery. These battery chargers shut off when a full charge is reached as to avoid overcharging and damaging the battery. Most of these battery chargers supply a 'pigtail' that can be permanently attached to your motorcycle battery, thus making it easier to connect the battery charger. So convenient that you easily could, and should use the battery charger year round.

The second sign of a long stored motorcycle is the deterioration of the fuel. Like batteries discharging, over time fuel will become 'stale' and creating a gum and varnish buildup. Not just the fuel in the tank, but in the entire fuel system. To avoid hard or impossible starting of your motorcycle (and poor running if you do get it started) due to stale fuel, removing or treating the fuel in your motorcycle is a must. Draining a fuel tank is a real drag, and getting all of the gas out of carburetors is not much better. Fortunately there are fuel additives available today that will halt the negative effects of aging gas, perfect for your stored motorcycle.

So lets re-cap. You put your motorcycle battery on a battery tender. You added a fuel stabilizer to your fuel system. You are set to hop on and ride in the Spring, right? Not so fast, take the time and consider a few more items commonly overlooked.

Where are you storing your motorcycle? Inside a heated garage is obviously the best option, but let’s face it, this is not a option for everyone. If you don’t have a garage to store your motorcycle in, a good quality motorcycle cover can work just fine. Either way consider the elements present, a heated garage can have its drawbacks as well!

If you are going to store your motorcycle outside under a cover, take the time to consider the location. A motorcycle parked in the dirt or grass for three winter months runs the risk of settling and falling over. Also, having your motorcycle tires planted in the dirt for three months while slowly going flat is not considered desirable. A motorcycle under a cover outside is likely to experience the effects of moisture, some possible corrosion and condensation in gauges and components. This can be a superficial problem, however, and by removing the cover and allowing your motorcycle to sun itself for a day here and there is an easy solution.

If you are storing your motorcycle in a garage you still need to consider its location. Does the garage have any appliances with a pilot light such as a clothes dryer, hot water heater or furnace? These are always a danger when in a closed area near gasoline or other flammable chemicals. Are there any windows that will let alot of sun in. I've seen a motorcycle in a garage, bathed in intense sunlight through a window, have all of its rubber parts dried out and cracked in one storage season. Another common problem is nesting rodents. They've been found in airboxes, seats, even exhaust pipes. These guys not only make a mess where they sleep, but also where they eat, they love to snack on electrical wires.

As always, before taking your motorcycle for a ride, make sure you complete a thorough safety check. All lights, switches, and safety equipment should be fully operational. All fluids should be clean and full. Make sure your riding gear is still in good condition, fits properly and that your motorcycle insurance policy is current.

Lastly, check your tire condition and pressures! Cold, flat motorcycle tires are not the right way to start the new season.

Let's face it: it's not a good idea to skimp on a helmet. The majority of bike-related deaths come from head injury.

A well-built helmet should offer a wide variety of benefits:

SAFETY: The shell should be made from organic fiberglass and carbon fiber in various layers. This creates a shock absorbent shell with optimum rigidity.

LINER: The helmet liner should provide optimized protection through EPS elements. The helmet should utilize a modular three-layer system with various degrees of shock absorbency.

VISOR: The visor should incorporate a variety of features that ensure easy change-ability of visors as well as resistance to fogging. The visors should also provide a high degree of impact resistance.

AERODYNAMICS: Quality helmets are designed with maximum comfort in mind. Streamlined aerodynamic shape along with the aero edge spoilers (which is race inspired) reduce drag and lift at high speed.

GOOD LOOKS: I put this last because it really isn't as important as all the safety and comfort features...but we all want to look good in a helmet, right? Well, with a huge variety of styles and colors to choose from, you can get a helmet that looks great and keeps you safe and comfortable.

What to look for when buying a quality motorcycle helmet.

There are several things to consider when purchasing any helmet. Firstly, is fit and comfort. Consider purchasing a helmet that is lightweight, and fits snugly without pinching or rubbing in spots.

Visibility is another important factor. You need to be able to see forward as well as to the sides. You might also try your prescription glasses while trying out the helmet to assure a comfy fit.

Finally, consider the ability of the helmet to manage air flow. No one wants a helmet that is noisy and constantly buffetting in the air.

All bikers want to protect themselves from the occasional spill. Your helmet protects your skull, but what about the rest of your body? Gloves and boots take care of the extremities but what about your torso and limbs? That's where a good set of leathers come in.

One of the best brands of leathers available is the teknic brand of leathers. There are several types of teknic leathers to choose from. Here are some of the major categories:

o 1&2 piece suits
o Leather jackets
o Leather pants
o Textile jackets
o Textile pants
o Ladies suits & jackets

Let's take a look at what makes Teknic leathers different than others. Firstly, you have the leather. Teknic uses thicker leather than the competition, so you get a suit that provides more abrasion protection.

Secondly, you have the armor. Teknic incorporates their armor into the leather in the critical areas-elbows, knees, and shoulders. By securely incorporating the armor it prevents it from moving around in the event of an impact.

Another consideration in selecting riding leathers is the seam construction. It is much more comfortable for the rider if their bare skin is not in direct contact with seams. Teknic covers their seams and prevents sore spots.

You should also consider stretch material in critical areas for comfort and control. The arm/shoulder and leg/groin areas are constantly moving, so having stretchable, breathable panels in these areas is a benefit.

Choosing the right set of teknic motorcycle leathers is a decision that could save your life. A high quality set of leathers not only make you look good, they also provide a good layer of protection.

The number of aftermarket exhausts are endless. they all make claims of better performance,style and sound. Recently I have been looking at a new aftermarket exhaust for my bike and I'm looking at a M4. These exhausts can have a significant effect on performance and the ability to carry a passenger.

First, the performance. Some bikers go the way of bolting a big bore no-name can on their bikes with the thought of cheap horsepower. Too bad--this rarely happens.

Modern bikes are finely tuned machines. The exhaust plays a crucial role in this system. No-name exhausts typically are not correctly tuned for your application and can actually hurt horsepower and torque.

The best way to evaluate an exhaust's performance is to look at a dyno sheet. So be sure to ask for a dyno sheet for the M4 exhaust. Dyno sheets are available by most high end manufacturers, and they clearly show where and how the horsepower and torque are changed with the new pipe.

The exhaust is specifically tied to your carb/fuel injection. When you change your exhaust it is critical that you have your carb re-jetted or your fuel injection recalibrated. This should be inexpensive at the shop doing the pipe swap.

Passenger Considerations with the M4 Motorcycle Exhaust: The other thing to consider with an aftermarket exhaust is how it will affect your passenger footpegs. Depending on how the system mounts, it might require you removing the rear pegs. This might not bother you, but it is something to consider.

Over the past five decades, the life of ball bearings has greatly increased. In fact, from its 1973 levels, the life span has improved a hundred times. This is partly due to the use of vacuum-induction-melted, vacuum-arc-remelted (VIM-VAR) AISI M-50 steel and improved oil filtration for angular contact ball bearings. An enhancement in the composition of lubricants that includes advanced EHD oil film thickness between bearing components has improved ball bearing performance and efficiency.

Ball bearings are used in machines and in wheels of vehicles like motorcycles, bikes and skateboards. Most modern wheel bearings last a long time. But, as it is with the principle of wear and tear, it also depends on how much pressure the bearings get from use and how extensive your maintenance activities are. For example, the ball bearings in a high-mileage dirt bike may not last as long in highly maintained vehicles. Cleaning the wheels with high pressure water can also contribute to the damage. Rust and dirt dry up the ball bearings and cause more friction that eventually wears them out.

To ensure that you maximize the life span of the ball bearings, you must be vigilant with maintenance. Most ball bearings were lubricated in the factory. Over time, the bearings lose those lubricants to the elements. Usually, a little grease will do the trick. Other times, a total overhaul is needed to change the bearings. Keep in mind that ball bearings are subjected to large amounts of pressure. Ease their burden by lessening friction. Be generous with the lubricants and always clean your wheels.

Bearings are tough and they give out warning signs before they totally collapse. Watch out for the faint clunking noise and creaking sounds they may make. Feel also for grittiness or lumps when you turn the wheel. If they are not smooth, you will know the ball bearings need lubrication.

Too many queries are made and we need real answers. In motorcycles, overwhelming questions are given especially on motorcycle parts. One motorcycle part that needs elucidation is tire.

Here are few of the frequently asked questions about tires:

1. Why are new tires better?

First, new tires are better because it is organic and it decomposes. Second because the older the tire gets, the more it is exposed to outgassing. Outgassing makes the tire brittle.

2. What’s the right tire age?

In essence, the principle is the newer the tire the better. However, to make a tire last longer the tire’s age is of lesser importance. But be careful not to buy tires which are over six or seven years old. You will be able to know their date of manufacturing by searching for the three or four-digit number stamped in the tire’s sidewall. For instance, 2101 stands for 21st week of 2001 - which is its manufacturing date.

3. What are size and pressure?

Run the bike in the recommended tire pressure. It is so simple. You just have to stick to the manufacturers guidelines. That is the safest and the best thing that you can do. Nevertheless, you can have some deviations depending on your desired performance. Moreover, you have to check tire pressure regularly.

4. What will I do in case of a flat tire?

Motorcycle tires swerve from more directions. Unlike car tires, motorcycle tire has only the other tire to prevent it from falling. Thus, the best thing to do in case of a flat tire is to replace it and not just plug it.

5. When is there a need for replacement?

It depends. Front tires may still shot even when there is still ample rubber. In fact, they may still look good even if they have gone through considerable heat cycles. They can also cup or scallop when already having uneven surface. This is the best time to replace them.

6. When to buy a tire?

Buying tires must be made at reputable motorcycle stores. These stores have already established their names and services. You can also order online. But this remedy is a gamble because it will not guarantee that you will be getting newly manufactured tires. When you buy tires personally, you have the opportunity to choose the freshest tire in the store. You also have the chance to compare prices and quality.

There seems to be an endless stream of idiotic things professional athletes do. I guess if you put a bunch of young men together, give them a boat-load of money and lots of free time, what can you expect? When beautiful women, the media and the luxuries of life are thrown at them, their cockiness and stupidity are only amplified. Here are my top ten, but of course there are lots more. However, we must always remember, they are only human too.

1. Me Make Good Play!

Ever see NFL players beat their chest like a gorilla after they just made a good play? I guess it’s a Tarzan thing or something, but they look kinda ridiculous. Maybe if I was out there on the field and I was a 170-pound kicker watching a defensive lineman beating his chest after a sack, I may be a little intimidated, but overall, they look really silly doing it. (I attended a professional all-women’s football game this year and saw a 350- pound woman do this, which was particularly scary.)

2. The God Factor, Part I

I hate it when players point up to Heaven and thank God after a good play too. Bear in mind however, that I am not criticizing religion or anyone for having faith in God. But this just looks lame. It happens a lot in MLB for some reason. A strikeout will cause Pedro Martinez to do the chest-touch and double-index- finger-point to God as if he and God were chatting earlier about possible pitching strategies in the locker room, and the strategy they chose together worked, so he had to personally thank God using his direct line.

3. The God Factor, Part II

Locker rooms, sidelines, dugouts, bullpens, and court sides are often full of praying men. One question: “If you are praying to win, and your opponent is praying to win, who does God choose?

4. Bad Boys, Bad Boys, Whatcha Gonna Do When They Come For You?

Why do pro jocks get arrested for drug and/or gun possession so much? Of course, lots of people do this one unfortunately, we just happen to hear about the famous athletes who do. C’mon guys, keep the drugs at home, stop driving while high, and for crying out loud, stop packin’! You don’t need a gun. Who’s going to harm you? You’re six six and weigh 275 pounds!

5. It Wasn’t Me!

Telling Congress you don’t do steroids, then getting caught doing steroids is pretty dumb. I loved watching the clips where Rafael Palmero sat pointing a finger at the Congressional hearing stating with disgust and confidence, “I do not take steroids.” And then the next clip showing him apologizing profusely for taking steroids.

6. I Love You To Death

Murdering ex-lovers doesn’t happen very often fortunately, but my list wouldn’t be complete without at least mentioning O.J.

7. Rabbits

It seems that there are a lot of NBA players out there who use the phrase, “My baby’s mom” a little too often. And there’s too many pro athletes’ offspring introducing their buddies as “My brother from another mother.” Ever hear of a condom?

If you are a motorbike lover, make sure you invest in motorbike insurance that will cover yourself and your machine before hitting the road – figuratively speaking of course.

Don’t settle for just any motorbike insurance. Make a list of questions and needs that you have and then call several companies to compare their services. Visit with agents to see if they are people you can work with and feel comfortable trusting. Look online to find out the company’s history and see if there are negative comments and reports floating around. Most importantly, talk to your friends and family about their experiences with insurance companies.

There are some things that you need to make sure stay consistent when you are getting quotes:

Motorbike model: The year and make of your motorbike will be one of the largest factors in determining the cost of your insurance premium.

Amount of coverage: Insurance companies will only pay out market value incase of an accident, so make sure that you are only pricing coverage for that amount.

Deductibles: There are varying degrees for deductibles, so make sure you keep the number consistent when getting quotes from different companies.

Extras: If one quote includes roadside assistance, then make sure they all do. The little things can make a big difference in the final quote.

Discounts: Insurance companies typically give discounts to drivers for good driving records, taking special safety courses, or having multiple insurance policies from one company. Make sure you get all the same discounts when comparing rates.

Shopping for motorbike insurance can be almost as tricky as shopping for that first bike. To make sure that you compare oranges to oranges – the rates are on the exact same products – keep a list of the terms you have been getting quoted right at hand.

After you get all the numbers crunched, add in the personal factor. No matter how good the rate, motorbike insurance doesn’t do you any good if you can’t get the company to respond to your claim. When you find a company that you can trust, an agent that you feel comfortable with, and a rate that you can afford then your motorbike insurance will make your biking experience a dream and not a nightmare.

So you want to ride a bike, huh? Good for you. There are few kinds of pure freedom left in the world, and there’s almost nothing like the raw exhilaration of getting your bike out on a blue sky, sunny day. Like the thrill of baseball, or the importance of gourmet cooking, it’s not something that can be explained. You really do have to experience it for yourself. Once you do, though, you’ll know what drew you to your bike in the first place, and how some men and women devote their entire lives and fortunes into riding. But first, before you even take your first ride, there’s an obstacle to cross:

You don’t know a damn thing about riding.

That’s all right, though, and we can help you, at least in learning your way around a bike. The mechanical parts of a bike aren’t that much different from the parts of a car: they both have shock absorbers, mufflers, and the several different parts of the internal combustion engine that spins the wheels. They both have headlights, and taillights, although there’s a vast difference in size. And they both have seats. You knew all this, already, huh? Well, here are a few other parts you might not know:

The sissie bar: This is the loop or rectangle of metal at the back of the rider’s seat, just above and before the saddlebags and rear wheel hood. Its sometimes coated in leather, sometimes in chrome, but it’s invaluable for newbie riders: it’s what they hold onto when the bike goes forward. Seriously. Biker parlance tells you that holding on is for sissies, hence the name.

Throttle, clutch, and brake handles: On most motorcycles, the throttle – or ignition – is mounted on the right side handlebar, and is turned either backwards or forwards to achieve thrust. The brake is on the left hand side and also depends on a foot pedal. The clutch, which shifts gears much like a standard transmission, is mounted on either side (again depending on the model). Steering – and this is important – is achieved by turning the handlebars and leaning to either side. Not to patronize, but again, the throttle is on the right, the brakes on the left. Please don’t ever confuse them.

Leathers: The leather jackets, riding chaps, and sometimes caps or hats worn by bikers to protect them from the elements and provide a certain amount of protection in the event of a crash. After the bike itself, the leathers are almost always a true biker’s most cherished possession, and a kind of record keeping: you can tell the rider’s history by the scuffs, marks, and tears of his leather. In recent years, certain synthetic leathers have come very, very close to approximating the real thing, but they may never be a true substitute.