Adrenaline rushing into their veins with such intensity everyone in the stadium can feel, it the extreme sport man is at his peak. Human energy is felt through out the event arena. But we can do nothing with this energy, we cannot use it to power up the stadium lights or harvest it. Or can we?

In fact we can, harvest some of this energy along with the roar of the engines and motors. You see when fans scream, clap their hands and stamp their feat they produce vibrational energy that is quite intense and even collectable. I propose to use this energy to light up the entire stadium like never before, without plugging into the power grid. How so? By placing large sandwich sheets in series. Each sheet with a taunt film on the vibrational side and small copper lined tubes inside, hundreds of them running perpendicular to the sheets, with magnets inside bouncing back and forth. These magnets will charge a capacitor and be hooked up to an LED lighting system using fiber optics or reflectors, each one hooked up to a .2 to .5 watt light. With hundreds of thousands of lights hooked up in a composite format, like the eye of an insect, it will light up the track and since the lights can shine down on the track in the direction of the race it would be like daylight without the light pollution associated with stadium lights in large cities. Maybe with free lighting costs they can lower the ticket prices?

The tunnels to the snack bar and restrooms indeed also echo and vibrate and can be lit up just as easy. Currently this technology is being used in those little flashlights you see advertised on television that you shake and they light, but you never need batteries. This idea of lighting up the stadium, tunnels, snack bar, bathrooms and even the parking lot would be is using that technology on a larger scale with miniaturized parts making up the guts between the sandwich sheets. Let there be light, thru vibrational energy and there was. Everyone loved it, even when the city lost power that night no one even missed a beat, they had no idea the city had gone dark. Think on it.

Since I bought my 2000 K12, I have been scouring the pages of the BMW LT riders website for all the information I can glean from them. I've done that for every bike I've owned since the internet was invented -- find a discussion group, get on board, and learn what I can about the bike before I manage to accomplish harm due to ignorance. The BMW group is great, full of information and experience, just what I need to get the most out of what I am already convinced is one incredible motorcycle.

But I must tell you, it hasn't all been joyful. Although I do express my sincere appreciation to the owners and maintainers of the site, and to all the contributors who have shown me what to look for and how to fix things, you should also realize that you've made me a nervous wreck. You've made my life a living hell -- a hell on wheels, so to speak.

I mean, how can I start up and ride my beautiful new K1200LT? I will only ride in fear. So many things to worry about...

I fear a mysterious haze will cloud my windshield, resulting in my instrument lights blanking out, my speedometer being too slow, and my radio playing static. I'm afraid I might get confused and put 880's in the crankcase, Dot 4 in the tires, and 15W50 in the clutch reservoir. Or worse, that I will inadvertently ask the question aloud to the group, "What's the best oil to use?" and find myself engaged eternally on a battlefield from which no warrior returns unscathed, and in which so many have died.

I'm afraid my brake fluid will become contaminated, causing my front wheel to wobble at low and/or high speeds, thus infecting my on-board computer with a virus and causing my highway pegs (J-Pegs) to turn to GIFS. I have grave concerns that the increased output from an amplifier upgrade will almost certainly cause my mirrors to fall off, and that in the process of turning around to pick them up off the roadway, I might kick my shift lever too hard in its ball joints. That is certain to make its rear brake screech loudly, I just know it.

I'm already convinced I have more options than money, and I know I can never afford to pay 600 bucks for a 200 dollar pair of armrests. But my more immediate concern is that my bike won't like its new battery and will start vibrating strangely at 4,236 RPM's. Or worse, flip itself off it's kickstand in a spiteful snit.

I worry and worry about what a MoDITec is, and I fear I may never find out. I fear I might not have one on my bike, and then I turn around and fear that perhaps I do. And I lost sleep last night playing with my own autocomm, and now I'm afraid I might be going blind, else my headlights are surely too dim.

These things are stressing me greatly -- so terribly, in fact, that I think I just need to get on and ride this beautiful bike, and abandon my fears. But I'm still waiting for the UPS man to bring my oil change kit.

The story of Kawasaki Company goes back to 1924, at that time involved into metallurgy and the aircraft industry.

In 1949, they decided to enter the motorcycle industry producing engines that could be adapted to motorcycles.

FIRST KAWASAKI MOTORCYCLES PRODUCTS  Motorcycle Engines

In their line you could find a 60 cc two-stroke, as well as a 150cc and a 250cc four-stroke engines developed with technology from BMW; company whom with they had had relationships since their beginnings in the aeronautical industry.

It wasn't until 1954 that Kawasaki Motorcycles produced their first complete motorcycle under the name of Meihatsu (a subsidiary of Kawasaki Aircraft Co.).

Almost at the same time, they also tried to introduce their own line of scooters to the market, but they soon realized they couldn't compete against the two giants of the scooters industry for those days: the Fuji Rabbit and the Mitsubishi Silver Pigeon.

And now before continuing with Kawasaki Motorcycles history, I have to open a big parenthesis…

IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT THE HISTORY OF KAWASAKI MOTORCYCLES

We cannot talk about Kawasaki without mentioning another make that will definitely help Kawasaki become as well as Honda, Suzuki, and Yamaha one of the big players in the Japanese Motorcycles scene:

--> Meguro Motorcycles: better know in that time as the "senior make and the king of four strokes".

Meguro entered the motorcycle industry in 1937. Having a good relationship with the government, the people at Meguro took advantage of the army orders.

Their first motorcycle was the Z97: a 500cc rocker-valve motorcycle influenced by the Swiss Motosacoche. It's worth mentioning this model was a success for the factory and the Z97 was in production till the fifties.

Along the years, Meguro produced some very nice 250cc and 350cc rocker-valve, single cylinder models as well as high performance twins. All of them with a very strong British influence. Then and thanks to the commercial success they were living, they also launched a rocker-valve 125 cc for their low end range and a twin cylinder 650cc to accompany the already existing 500cc.

But it was in 1958, when Meguro tried to get rid of their British influence, when things started to go wrong...

Based on a winning prototype of Mount Asama (one of the biggest races that time), Meguro Motorcycles produced three nice and elegant machines with overhead camshaft: the 125cc E3, the 250cc F and the 350cc Y A. Unfortunately these bikes turned out to be too heavy and didn't get the buyers' attention. Meguro will soon return to rocker valve models.

Meguro Motorcycles remained as one of the top 10 manufacturers till 1960, but due to some bad decisions, as the ones mentioned above, the company started to decline and was soon bought by Kawasaki.

In 1960 Meguro signed an initial agreement with Kawasaki Motorcycles, and in 1962 they had completely disappeared.

….And this brings us back to Kawasaki Motorcycles...

In 1960, the company decides to give a serious push to the motorcycle division of Kawasaki Aircrafts:

They take out of the market the Meihatsu brand, they build their own plant of low end and low powered machines and buy Meguro.

These brilliant moves and decisions made Kawasaki Motorcycles have one of the widest range of models in the market. Kawasaki Motorcycles could offer at that time (1960's) from a 50cc moped-scooter to a powerful, high end and beautiful 650 cc twin cylinder motorcycle.

Its also important to mention that due to their very own nature, Kawasaki Motorcycles has always played the role of Maverick in the industry and that a feeling of independence from their main competitors has always been present.

Since then, many stories have been written, many models have been produced and many races have been won on Kawasaki Motorcycles, the truth is...

Nowadays Kawasaki Motorcycles is one of the major players in the industry and following their tradition, they nowadays offer a wide range of products for all kind needs and likes.

A very clever design: the Honda Super Cub was the combination of a moped and a scooter. It attracted many people due to its friendly and non intimidating look. People who before had felt threatened by bigger motorcycles, approached and adopted this model very quickly.

It was a versatile motorcycle and had enough power to carry two passengers or a passenger with luggage. Its large diameter tires and wide seats made the ride almost as comfortable as the touring bikes from that time.

>> Honda 50cc Cub and Super Cub FACTS

- In 1952 Honda built 7000 units of this bike which represented the 70% of the entire production of Japanese motorcycles for that year.

- Thanks to this model Honda Motorcycles were absolute market leaders during 1953 and 1954.

It’s worth mentioning that those were very competitive days. There were many manufacturers competing for a very fast growing and demanding market.

- The Honda Super Cub was the equivalent of the Ford T or the Volkswagen Beetle for automobiles. As of 1992 Honda Motorcycles had built 20 million of these machines.

- The Honda 50cc Super Cub was exported to 120 countries.

As the Volkswagen Beetle, the Honda Super Cub didn't change much through time. Just take a look at the technical data below:

1959 Honda Super Cub Specifications

-> Four stroke horizontal engine.
-> 49 cc of displacement
-> Three speed semi-automatic gearbox.
-> U-shaped frame in stamped steel.
-> Weight: 155 lbs. (70 kg.)
-> Speed: 35 mph (57 kph)

1992 Honda Super Cub Specifications

-> Four stroke horizontal engine.
-> 49 cc of displacement
-> Three speed semi-automatic gearbox.
-> U-shaped frame in stamped steel.
-> *Weight: 122 lbs. (55 kg.)
-> *Speed: 50 mph (80 kph)

"If you are going to do something, be the best"
Ginichi Kawakami, Yamaha Motor Company First President.

Yamaha Motorcycles, under this motto, employing all its creativity, and with a very strong spirit of challenge, became what it is now: one of the biggest players in the worldwide motorcycling scene.

But Yamaha's history doesn't start with motorcycles...

It is back in 1877 that Torakusu Yamaha started with the Nippon Gakki Company that later would become Yamaha Corporation: an important manufacturer of fine musical instruments.

As the company grew, they explored several fields of opportunity in the textile industry and others.

During the World War II, the company set up a factory to produce airplane propellers. This plant played an important role in Yamaha's entry to the motorcycle industry as you will see.

After the war, Yamaha Corporation had to find new ways to use the tooling and experience that had been accumulated during their times in the airplane industry, and it was then when Yamaha Motor Corporation was founded.

It's important to mention that even though this new company was just another branch of Yamaha Corporation, it was placed under an independent management. In this case, under the guidance of Ginichi Kawakami; which turned out to be a brilliant move.

Before producing their first motorcycle, Ginichi Kawakami traveled a lot establishing what would be very useful relationships. He also sent out his engineers to Europe and had them learn how to build motorcycles, particularly from DKW; whom with they kept an underground and unofficial long lasting relationship.

One proof of this is that nowadays, the only two manufacturers in the world of mass-produced five side-valve engines are Yamaha an Audi (DKW - Auto Union).

One of the most important legacies from this international relationships were all the skills learnt by Yamaha's engineers on two stroke engines know-how. Other manufacturers as Suzuki would not reach the same level of development in this area till seven years later.

With the depreciation on motorcycles being so enormous after they are driven off the showroom floor, the potential for a buyer owing more on their motorcycle loan than the bike is worth it quite high. Owing more on your bike than it is worth is often referred to as the world of “up side down”.

Many people finding themselves in this situation discover that financial lessons are sometimes the hardest and most expensive to learn. Motorcycle loans of more than 48 months (especially without a down payment) put you in the position of owing more than the value of the bike.

Let’s take a look at this phenomenon.

First, the interest calculation your lender uses can make a big difference in your situation, especially in the first 18 months. There are two primary interest calculations, pre-computed (combined with rule of 78) and simple interest.

Pre-computed interest combined with Rule of 78, is typically the worst situation for a buyer because most of the interest is paid in the first 24 months. Therefore, in the first 24 months little of the monthly payment has gone towards paying down principal. If a buyer wishes to sell or trade in the motorcycle within this timeframe they will likely find themselves owing more than the bike is worth. Statistics show that the average owner trades in every 18-24 months.

Simple interest on the other hand, is much more favorable for buyers since interest accrues on the balance of the loan. However, buyers that extend their loans for greater than 48 months can still find themselves up side down with simple interest. This is especially true if a down payment is not made. The reason this occurs is that the motorcycle depreciates faster than the principal is paid; leaving the balance owed to the lender to be more than the bike can be sold for.

A common view that many people have is that they will just surrender their motorcycle to the lender if they are caught in an “up side down” position. If you are considering this option don’t! Your worries do not just end after your bike is surrendered or repossessed; in fact they are just beginning. The lender will sell your bike at an auction for much less than it is worth. You will still owe the difference between the amount you owed on your loan and the amount the motorcycle sold for at auction. So if you owe $5000 and the bike sells for $1500, you still are responsible for owing the lender $3500. To make it worse lenders may tack on hefty auction fees which you will owe as well. So the net result is that you are now responsible for making monthly payments on a bike you can no longer ride.

So what steps can you take to prevent from being caught “up side down”?

1. Find a lender that uses simple interest. Avoid lenders that use pre-computed / Rule of 78 interest calculations.

2. Always try to put money down on your purchase.

3. Try to avoid motorcycle loans that extend past 36 months.

Carbon fiber motorcycle helmets are one of the most modern helmets around. The carbon fiber material used in motorcycle helmets refer to carbon filament threads woven into cloth or felt. It can also be a composite material made from carbon filaments that make up the protective shell of your helmet. This material can also be combined with another material such as Kevlar in the manufacture of stronger and lighter helmet models.

Carbon fibers in helmets are made by superheating an acrylic fiber that results to better strength and stiffness to weight properties. Carbon fiber composites can achieve the strength of metals at a significant savings in weight, the two factors needed in making quality motorcycle helmets.

Kevlar is created by dissolving a polymer in a solvent and then extracting the fibers and then spinned to form threads. Although Kevlar has properties that are similar to carbon fiber, it lacks compressive strength. By combining carbon fiber and Kevlar, one can get a laminate that has three times the flexural strength than that of Kevlar alone.

Carbon fiber motorcycle helmets provide a lighter yet more durable helmet than most motorcycle helmets today made from fiberglass. With carbon fiber motorcycle helmets, it is now possible to make more compact motorcycle helmets that are lighter and less bulky.

Most carbon fiber helmets are available for you from custom helmet manufacturers. But there are other manufacturers now beginning to make motorcycle helmets out of this extremely useful material. With it, motorcycle helmets become lighter, stronger and cooler.

There are now carbon fiber motorcycle helmets such as the THH T-69 that offers you a DOT approved motorcycle helmet. Its smaller shell design helps in making it ever the popular choice with most riders today. There is also the HJC AC-12 full face carbon fiber helmet that incorporates racer tested features for use by the ordinary motorcycle rider on the road.

It has features such as the Flow Through ACS Advanced Channeling Ventilation Feature System that provides extraordinary ventilation to make you feel cooler. It also makes use of an Anti-fog System to provide you with a clear view even in the coldest of days. This motorcycle helmet also has a built-in communication system speaker cavity to allow two-way or multi-channel communication when required.

With today’s technology, motorcycle helmets have evolved to provide you with better protection and a more comfortable riding experience. With all the choices now available for you, you would surely have that helmet that would work for you.

A cheap motorcycle helmet doesn’t have to be inferior to the more expensive ones. It is just a matter of looking for what kind of motorcycle helmets would work best for you. There are cheap motorcycle helmets that can perform just as well as the most popular brands out there. In order to look for them, you should be able to know how to find those helmets and what features and qualities to look for.

One of the most important features that you should look for in looking for a cheap motorcycle helmet is the comfort that it provides. The motorcycle helmet can either make or break your riding experience. An uncomfortable helmet can make any ride an agonizing experience. Helmet comfort is difficult to determine right away. In order to make your search easier, try checking out cheap but recognizable brands which are generally the most comfortable.

Check out also the soft rubber padding touching your head as well as the solid seal around the ears. Check out also the neck roll which cradles the back of your head and neck. When trying out a cheap motorcycle helmet, make sure that it snugly fits into your head without being too constricting. But also make sure that it isn’t loose enough to shift about your head.

Another feature that you should look for in a cheap motorcycle helmet is the level of safety that it can provide. The best motorcycle helmets are those that provide the most protection. In finding the best helmet for you, check for the fit as well as the interior padding that can provide you with the protection that you need. See to it that these interior pads can help provide the amount of safety and protection that you are looking for as well as comfort.

Try also checking out the helmets chin strap which must reach around your and under your chin comfortably and securely so that the helmet would not shift about unnecessarily. Make sure that your helmet is also the best fitted for you by wearing it yourself. A good fit should mean a helmet that is settled low on the forehead and just above your eyebrows.

Check yourself in the mirror while wearing the helmet to make sure that it is straight and properly fitted. For safety purposes, be sure to choose a DOT (Department of Transportation) approved helmet to be sure that your safety and protection is guaranteed. Try checking the safety ratings of the helmets that you are checking to ensure that you will be using a helmet with reliable head coverage.

Ready to take your motorcycle on the open road? This article will take you through the steps to get your Florida motorcycle license with an extra emphasis on safe driving.

The Rules

Under Florida DMV guidelines, anyone who drives a motorcycle must have a Class M motorcycle license or motorcycle instruction permit.

Applicants must be 16 years of age, pass the motorcycle knowledge test, a hearing test, and a vision screening. The final step is to pass the motorcycle skills test where you will demonstrate your competency in motorcycle operation.

All first-time applicants for a motorcycle endorsement who are under age twenty-one must complete a department approved motorcycle safety education course.

Prepare for the Written Exam

The Florida DMV requires that all applicants must pass a written motorcycle knowledge test on traffic signs, motor vehicle laws and safe driving techniques.

If you fail the exam, some states require you to wait until at least until the next day to take the test again and charge a re-examination fee.

All motorcyclists are encouraged to study for this written test so you won't take a chance on standing in line at the DMV Office only to go home empty-handed. Online motorcycle sample tests are available that provide real sample questions from the Florida DMV Motorcycle Exam.

Paperwork

Before you head to the Florida DMV Office, make sure you have the following required documents to get your motorcycle license. Examples include:

* Birth certificate issued in any state
* Drivers license or instruction permit issued in another state
* U.S. passport
* U.S. military ID card (active duty, retired, reserve)
* Florida ID card
* Social Security Number, if issued,
* Documents from a court of record
* Marriage certificate

On the Road

Once your licensing requirements have been met, a Class M endorsement will be added to your driver's license. Remember... the safe operation of a motorcycle requires practiced skill, knowledge, and a respectful understanding of the limitations imposed by the operator, the machine, and the environment.

Mini Motos have been around in the UK for around ten years now. The first bikes we’re cobbled together with parts that were already available. Small 2 stroke engines, mainly from garden machinery, were used. This type of engine is still used today for a few models and is referred to as an ‘industrial’ engine. But now the mini moto has been given an overhaul and has taken off in popularity.

Mini Motos are true miniatures of their larger Super bike cousins. All of the details that go into the high performance motorcycles of today are scaled down. The slick tires, the race replica bodywork and the “super bike” colours are all present. Although usually only 15 to 18 inches in height and weighing 35 to 55 pounds, it can be difficult to tell they’re not full size when looking at them from a distance. The exactness of detail adds to their 'coolness' and is most certainly what has raised them to such heights of popularity.

Although beautiful, Mini Motos go well beyond being mere exquisite scale models. Advanced engineering has catapulted them to high-performance levels at only slightly outrageous prices. European companies like Blata and Polini sell units for £1200-£2000 but less expensive and arguably less reliable ones are made by Chinese manufacturers and cost £180-£400. Most models have two-stroke, 47cc engines, which run on a combination of petrol and two stroke oil. Despite the awkward-looking position it takes to mount one, they are a sheer joy to ride. The short wheelbase and overall low weight give them a lightning-fast turn and the thrill of riding so fast and so close to the terra firma is indeed intoxicating. Safety measures are a must when riding Mini Motos. Gloves, elbow pads, knee pads, a leather suit and a helmet should all be worn for each and every ride. Without them, road rash is quite likely and worse injuries are possible.

Despite the size of these little wonders adults are getting them for their kids but more commonly, for themselves. Normal models can regularly go 35mph, all though parents can set them to max out at much slower speeds or … modify them to go faster. Moreover, models with more powerful engines are available. A GRC RX with 15hp 50cc engine by GRC Moto can be purchased for a mere £1999.

The Mini Moto explosion shows no signs of ending anytime soon and MM racing leagues have been in practice in the UK for around seven years now.

The Mini Moto Racing Association offers the following categories for you to test your Mini Moto.

Junior Lights (4.2 hp) Age 6 - 15 up to 35.9 Kg
Junior Cadets (4.2 hp) Age 6 - 15 over 36 Kg
Junior Production Age 9 - 15 no weight limits
Lightweight Production Age 16 + up to 74.9 Kg
Senior Production Age 16 + over 75 Kg
4.2 Senior Age 16 + no weight limits
Supers Age 16 + no weight limits

Race meeting are held around to the country at Go Kart and Mini Moto Tracks. There are also many ‘Arrive and Drive’ practice sessions hosted by tracks around the UK.

Has your scoot been sitting in the garage all winter, just dying to be ridden? Or have you had the chance to only get her out a couple of times? If you answer yes to either of these questions, then this article will intrest you. This article lets you know what I do every year right before riding season starts.

Living in the lower midwest, there seems to be several chances to ride during the winter. Usually, a day here, and a day there. But for the most part the bike still sits on a pretty regular basis. Sitting, in and of itself doesn't do any harm to your bike but some of the less durable stuff has a tendancy to break down even when sitting. Another thing, in order to help you have a safer and problem free season it's just better to run the checks listed below.

• Fuel - Gas tends to break down as it ages. If you've ever smelt a gas can that been sitting for awhile you know what I mean. If my bikes been sitting for a over a month, I will drain the gas and put new fuel in it.
• Oil and Primary Drive Fluid - Now I don't know if oil breaks down by just sitting, but every March 1st I do an oil change regardless of the milage since the last one. One of the things that was suggested to me was that by doing an oil change after the bike has sat for awhile helps get more of the stuff that gathers in oil out.
• Battery - Winters can be rough on batteries. I know some people who take theirs out during the winter and store it in a warmer place. I also know people who keep it on a battery charger all winter. I don't know what works best, but I do know that a battery that has sat for awhile might not have all of the kick it really needs. Before you go out for the first time, give the battery a good check. Look for leaks or anything that looks unusal. If you've got a battery charger, give it a good charge before you go out. It might just help keep you on the road.
• Air Cleaner - During the winter the critters that live in your garage all scamper to find someplace to hide your air cleaner could be one of them. I pull out my air cleaner and clean it and oil it every year at the time that I do my winter oil change. By doing that I'm sure that my first ride will be a nicer day.
• Spark Plugs - To me it just seems to easy to not pull the plugs and give them a quick once over. Plugs in general can tell you a lot about how your motor is running. Why not check them and replace them now, instead of on the side of the road.
• Belts and Chains - Wheather you have belt drive, chain drive or shaft drive. Make sure all the parts appear in good order and everything that is supposed to be tight is tight.
• Tires and Wheels - Make sure your tires look ok. That they don't have any cracks or worn spots and that tire pressure is good. (You should do this regularly). As for your wheels. If you have solid wheels or mags or anything other than spokes checking your wheels is pretty easy. You only have to check for any corrosion, or dings. If you have spokes, CHECK TO MAKE SURE THEY ARE TIGHT. Loose spokes can cause you to get a flat or even worse, have the spokes to break. Check them carfully.
• Cables- During the winter you can get quite a bit of condensation in your cables. This can cause all kinds of problems. These might include rusting the cable or weakening the cable. Check them and lubricate them if necessary.
• Lights - Make sure that all of your lights and other electrical components are in working order. Especially, at the beginning of the season, since the cagers aren't used to seeing us out there.
• Chassis - Make sure that everything is tightened up. Some of us who ride bikes that have a tendancy to really loosen things up need to really check the bike over during this step.
• Rider Gear - Now that the bike is already to go make sure you are too. Check your eye protection, condition leathers, and protect your helmet with a new headwrap. Also don't forget, you might still be wearing gloves so check those zipper pulls also.

All of these are important checks for starting out the season and during the riding season. You don't have to be a great wrench to be able to do these checks and there are several books available that can help you with these basic maintenance tasks.

All rubber tires wear down over time, whether they're on a motorcycle or automobile. However, you want to watch out for uneven or excessive wear, both of which can cause serious problems for motorcycle riders. If you pay attention to the following causes of excessive and uneven wear, you will extend the life of your tires and keep yourself safe:

1. Improper Tire Pressure - We have all heard about the importance of maintaining proper tire pressure at all times. Improper air pressure in your tire is a big reason for many tire problems and failures. Be sure your tires have the recommended pressure in them at all times.

2. Humped Roads -- Most roads are "humped" slightly in the middle or banked away from the center to allow rain and water to drain off. However, this hump can have a dramatic effect on one side of your motorcycle's front tire because the side of the tire closer to the center of the road will wear faster. There's not much you can do about this, and it can become very visible if you ride a lot. So be aware of this phenomenon and check the left side of your front tire often.

3. Disproportionate Cupping -- Cupping is a normal phenomenon on rubber tires that occurs when the brakes are applied. However, excessive use of the front brake can produce disproportionate cupping, when one side of the tire is more cupped than the other. Using the front brake will naturally put more pressure and force on the front tire to make it stop, thereby using up more rubber.

4. Wheel Alignment - While this problem is not as common on motorcycles as it is on cars, it causes uneven tire wear. Any number of things can cause wheel misalignment on motorcycles, including getting into a fender bender, riding over potholes, jumping over sidewalks and curbs, etc. It is a good idea to have your wheel alignment checked out at least once a year to make sure that a misalignment isn't unevenly wearing your front tire.

5. Shock Absorbers -- A bad shock absorber can wreak havoc on the handling of your bike and promotes uneven front tire wear. So make sure your shocks are in good shape.

6. Improper Loading -- The final major problem to keep in mind is improper loading of your bike, which causes your front tire to wear unevenly. Proper weight distribution is essential to being able to handle and steer your bike safely. Loading down one side of your saddlebag with tools or equipment can keep you from riding as vertically as possible, creating uneven tire wear.

So check your tires frequently, and keep these causes in mind if you begin noticing excessive or uneven front tire wear. Having the knowledge and taking the proper precautions will not only make you a safer rider but will prolong the life of your bike's tires.

Many mini moto modifications will require you to remove the engine from the mini moto. This is why I have produced the following guide.

Firstly you will need to remove the mini moto’s fairing.

Start with the seat fairing, unscrew the four seat screws and remove the seat. Unscrew the screw at the front end of the seat fairing and remove the petrol cap. The fairing can now be lifted from the mini moto. Replace the fuel tank petrol cap and remove the fuel tank by pulling the rubber tube of the nipple on the top of the carburettor. You may want to double the rubber fuel tube over and secure it in this position with a clothes peg. This is to stop fuel leaking out.

Remove the bottom fairing by unscrewing the holding bolts (two on each side), this frees the bottom fairing from the top. Unscrew the two bolts on the underside of the bottom fairing. The bottom fairing is now free. The top fairing is only now held on by one last bolt located in between the handle bars at the front of the mini moto.

Once you have removed the fairing, you will need to take the chain off the front sprocket. To do this loosen the back wheel nuts and the tensioning bolts. The back wheel can now be manoeuvred toward the front sprocket loosing the chain. When the chain is loose enough you can remove it from the front sprocket.

Remove the pull start from the engine by unscrewing the three holding screws. Once the pull start has been removed you will see the wire that comes from the stop switch. Unplug this.

The throttle cable can be removed from its fitting on the top of the carburettor. Pull the rubber seal up so that the locking nut can be unscrewed, the throttle can now be pulled from the carburettor along with the needle valve and spring.

The next step is to Remove the Exhaust. The exhaust is fixed to the mini motos frame by a bolt located just under the seat fairing toward the back of your mini moto. Undo this bolt with a spanner and an alan key. The exhaust is fixed to the underside of the engine by two bolts via a gasket. Remove the two bolts with an alan key making sure that you do not lose the gasket washer. The exhaust can now be slid out past the engine and removed form the mini moto.

The engine is free from its mechanical fittings, the engine then needs to be removed from the mini motos frame. The bolt at the top of the engine must be undone first using the alan key. The three screws located on the underside of the engine are the last fixings to be undone. The engine can now be completely removed from the mini moto.

Call them crash protectors, crash bobbins, fairing protectors or frame sliders, all these products ultimately seek to do one thing - protect your expensive bodywork or the essential and often expensive structural parts of your motorcycle from damage in the even of a fall or tip-over. The frame slider concept is as old as the proverbial 'crash bar' and today there are as many designs and brands as there are models of bikes. The proliferation of these types of products testify to the success of the idea of providing a sacrificial item to absorb some of the damage in the event of a fall. We are by no means experts on this concept nor were we the first to come up with it, but in this article we hope to provide you with an unbiased view so that you can make an informed decision when you're ready to put down your hard earned cash.

Cost:

Cost of the frame sliders must be appropriate to the items that they are designed to protect. Price is not necessarily the best indicator of quality. Poorly designed frame sliders made of the nicest shiniest materials may not serve their purpose as well as well designed but less 'bling' ones.

Mounting Configurations:

The frame slider must be designed to mount securely onto a strong enough part of the motorcycle so that impact forces can be adequately distributed or absorbed. Here are some popular mounting configurations.

Fairing Mounted Frame Sliders

Sliders that mount onto the fairing with small fairing screws may provide some protection in a minor tip-over but offer very minimal protection in a slide. These sliders are not generally recommended for serious riders.

Frame Mounted Sliders - Direct

The most popular and viable mounting option is directly to a selected strong point of the frame. Sliders with this design offer the most protection and impact force distribution. The installation of this type of slider often require modification of the fairing and in some cases like the Honda VFR800, as extreme as requiring the modification of the coolant bottle. For this reason, many choose the first or the third option as fairing modification can at times be quite intimidating. This option is the most popular for serious sportsriders, amateur and semi-professional racers alike as they provide the best protection for the money. One other thing to consider when choosing these types of sliders is where they will be mounted to.

Many models of sportbikes offer several places to mount them, frame slider manufacturers all have their personal reasons for choosing the mounting location for theirs and many of them make that choice for the wrong reasons. An example is cost - a location that offers a two short bolt mounting location is cheaper than one using a long through the engine bolt choice. The former being a much weaker location. If you own an SV650 you will know what we mean. Another choice is the use of a bracket so that cutting of the fairing is avoided - see below (Frame Mounted Frame Sliders-Through-Engine Bolts).

Frame Mounted Sliders - In-Direct

To address some of the concerns owners may have about modification of the fairing, some manufacturers have opted for a design that allows for the slider to mount onto an offset bracket that then mounts onto the frame. This offset introduces a whole new set of variables into the mix. Depending on the degree of the offset, impact forces now include amplified torque stresses which will be applied to the frame mounting points. Offset brackets will need to be of beefier construction, but not so beefy as to stay intact during an impact while severely damaging the frame mounting points. This is often the most costly type of slider configuration as most brackets require ingenious CNC work and design. In some situations employment of a bracket is a calculated risk, in others it is just not feasible. No cut sliders are attractive to most bikers so do your homework and ask the manfacturer questions before you buy them.

Frame Mounted Frame Sliders-Through-Engine Bolts

The third mounting option found only on certain models of bikes like the Suzuki DL1000 Vstrom, TL1000S, SV650 and Ducati models of bikes allow for use of the long, through-the-engine mounting bolt. This method is by far the strongest available as impact forces are allowed to be distributed over a much larger area. This is also the second more costly design as these long bolts are quite expensive to manufacture. The design must be structurally strong enough not to break off when encountering the various types of impact forces but not so strong that these forces would be transmitted entirely to and damage the considerably more costly frame mounting points. In other words you want to sacrifice your slider before your fairing and then your frame in that order. It's a delicate balance and there is no sure way to ensure that any one design will accomplish this desired goal.

Frame Slider Material:

The choice of material used for the frame slider should be a balance of the following 3 requirements:

Abrasion Resistance - the material should be hard enough to be able to slow the bike down in a slide and not be totally worn down to the bolt half way through a slide

Structural Strength - the material should be strong but not brittle and snap off too easily on impact

Energy Absorption-the material used should have some energy absorbing properties but not be so hard that all impact forces are transmitted to the mounting points or fasteners (solid steel or aluminum materials are examples of non-energy absorbing materials).

Most high quality frame sliders today are made of some kind of nylon or other for energy absorption and with aluminum inserts for strengthening of the fastening points. The range of nylon types, with different levels of abrasion resistance and "brittleness" used is also quite varied.

Fasteners and Components:

Quality of materials used, aesthetics and quality of workmanship should also be considered when choosing the right frame slider for your bike. Look for high quality anodized steel bolts. Black non-coated bolts will rust in a week or less depending where you live. Stainless steel washers between your steel bolts and aluminum inserts in the slider also reduce potential corrosion problems. Socket head cap screws offer the smallest footprint allowing for a thicker and stronger slider dimensions and are generally much more expensive then regular hex-head screws. Nyloc lock nuts where applicable are another added safety feature. True, these are all minor considerations in the overall scheme of things but they all add up to the cost of manufacturing. One last thing to remember is to always try to use some form of thread lock compound like Loctite and to properly torque the mounting bolts to the manufacturer's recommendations. If you're not sure check out our torque reference guide.

CONCLUSION:

Where does that leave you the consumer? Well, we all don't want to think about the day when we will be able to justify the purchase of frame sliders. The reality is that as long as bikes have only two wheels, you can expect them to fall over sooner or later. Frame sliders are one of the surest and least expensive ways to ensure some protection for the expensive or sometimes irreplaceable parts of your bike. After all some protection is still better than none. Think about broken rear brake levers, gear shifters or even worse - punctured radiators or coolant bottles, when you're miles from civilization. The rule is the same in our opinion no matter what you're spending your money on - buy the best you can afford and don't be afraid to ask the manufacturer why their product is better than the plethora of other brands available out there. Any good manufacturer will be very clear about what differentiates their products form others so that you will be able to make the correct purchase decision.

Many mini moto modifications will require you to remove the engine from the mini moto. This is why I have produced the following guide.

Firstly you will need to remove the mini moto’s fairing.

Start with the seat fairing, unscrew the four seat screws and remove the seat. Unscrew the screw at the front end of the seat fairing and remove the petrol cap. The fairing can now be lifted from the mini moto. Replace the fuel tank petrol cap and remove the fuel tank by pulling the rubber tube of the nipple on the top of the carburettor. You may want to double the rubber fuel tube over and secure it in this position with a clothes peg. This is to stop fuel leaking out.

Remove the bottom fairing by unscrewing the holding bolts (two on each side), this frees the bottom fairing from the top. Unscrew the two bolts on the underside of the bottom fairing. The bottom fairing is now free. The top fairing is only now held on by one last bolt located in between the handle bars at the front of the mini moto.

Once you have removed the fairing, you will need to take the chain off the front sprocket. To do this loosen the back wheel nuts and the tensioning bolts. The back wheel can now be manoeuvred toward the front sprocket loosing the chain. When the chain is loose enough you can remove it from the front sprocket.

Remove the pull start from the engine by unscrewing the three holding screws. Once the pull start has been removed you will see the wire that comes from the stop switch. Unplug this.

The throttle cable can be removed from its fitting on the top of the carburettor. Pull the rubber seal up so that the locking nut can be unscrewed, the throttle can now be pulled from the carburettor along with the needle valve and spring.

The next step is to Remove the Exhaust. The exhaust is fixed to the mini motos frame by a bolt located just under the seat fairing toward the back of your mini moto. Undo this bolt with a spanner and an alan key. The exhaust is fixed to the underside of the engine by two bolts via a gasket. Remove the two bolts with an alan key making sure that you do not lose the gasket washer. The exhaust can now be slid out past the engine and removed form the mini moto.

The engine is free from its mechanical fittings, the engine then needs to be removed from the mini motos frame. The bolt at the top of the engine must be undone first using the alan key. The three screws located on the underside of the engine are the last fixings to be undone. The engine can now be completely removed from the mini moto.