Choosing the right Motorcycle helmet can make a difference….

….literally between life and death. But how does an ordinary guy in the street make an informed decision about what kind of helmets give the best protection? There are so many makes, models and styles. Not to mention DOT approved, Snell approved, ECE approved! It is enough to make you go goggle eyed when confronted with so much information.

Tests have shown that it is perfectly possible to suffer a fatal injury falling off a stationary bike if you hit your unprotected head on the kerb, so clearly choosing the right helmet is important.

But which one?

Wouldn’t it be easier if someone just said, “Look, when you are in a crash, you need to protect this part of you head, because this is the part that is most likely to get hurt”…

Well that’s what I thought. But it wasn’t that easy. The kind of information you need to make that kind of call requires someone, somewhere to look at a whole bunch of motorcycle crashes, look at the motorcycle helmet damage, assess where point of impact occurred and put the information into a form that allows ordinary motorcyclists (like you and me) to make a decision for themselves.

However, the good news is that if you look hard enough, the information is available. A study was carried out a few years ago by Deitmar Otte, at the Medizinsche Hochschule in Hannover, Germany on the damage incurred to helmets worn by motorcyclists involved in accidents. His analysis was extremely detailed; in fact it was far to detailed for me to go into here, but it was extremely important.

What I am going to do is tell you in a nutshell, what parts of your head are most likely to be hurt in a motorcycle accident, based on Herr Otte’s findings. The rest is up to you…

Take a motorcycle helmet and look at it from the front. Now imagine it is divided into three sections; the top (the cranium area) the middle (the area most likely covered by the visor) and the bottom (on a full face helmet, this would be the chin guard area). If you were involved in a motorcycle accident, and you hit your head you would have a 35% chance of the impact occurring to your chin area, 10% to your visor area, and 22% chance of the impact occurring to your front cranium area.

Now turn the helmet around. Looking at it from the back, divide it in two down the middle. In an accident, if you hit you head, you have a 16% chance of impact occurring on the back of you head to the left side, and a 17% chance of impact occurring on the back right side.

Conclusion? Well, this is only my personal conclusion but I would say the following…

The safest helmets are full face helmets…

Second would be three quarter helmets with visors…

Third would be half helmets…

Last would be novelty helmets.

There are lots of reasons people wear helmets. However, if safety is you main consideration, then take a good look at the full face helmets on the market, take some time and find one which you can wear comfortably on every ride.

German inventors Gottlieb Daimler and Wilhelm Maybach first developed motorcycles in 1885. It was a revolutionary petroleum-powered means of transportation that had provisions for a pair of stabilizing wheels. It came to be known as the riding car. Former models were large, bulky and had poor handling capabilities. Development of motorcycles began to progress after the First World War that saw extensive use of motorcycles, especially by Germans. These models were made with the help of new internal combustion engines that many manufacturers and producers of bicycles adapted in their designs.

Motorcycles were widely used as an economical solution to deal with rising prices of transportation. Prices of motorcycles were high at that time but yielded better returns over a period of time. As new internal combustion engines became additionally powerful and designs outgrew its bicycle origins, the number of motorcycle producers reduced. India was the largest manufacturer of motorcycles until Harley Davidson launched its bikes in the market in 1928.

Motorcycles are moderately complicated machines that make use of a "chassis" to support other parts of the bike, a "fairing" to mask the front end of the handle, "suspensions" to absorb shocks and reduce wear and tear of the motorcycle, wheels, an engine, a transmission, and brakes. These are a few basic elements of a bike, along with some more technical mechanics involved, such as oil tank, chains, odometers, and so on. The engine comes in two variants where one of them is a popular option for most due to its simple usage.

Automatic Motorcycles eliminate the hassle of frequently changing gears during traffic or other stops. Nevertheless, manual transmission is preferred as it is more economical that the automatic transmission models. Auto transmission feature takes a toll on the fuel consumption of the bike. Young people find it easy to use automatic Motorcycles because this operation is less complicated and the performance is comparable for limited use.

While purchasing an Automatic Motorcycle it is advisable to opt for a 4-stroke engine as it provides better fuel economy.

The best motorcycle for a woman is dependent on your body and skill level. Women are as varied in terms of experience and stature as men.

What should you look for in a bike? Size and stature are one of the first things to consider. You want to be comfortable straddling and controlling your bike.

The weight and seat height of your bike are the two most important things to consider. It is not enjoyable or confidence inspiring to be riding a bike that is bigger and heavier than you are comfortable with.

Elena and I recently took a motorcycle safety foundation (MSF) basic rider course to see if we could further our riding level. The bikes used in the course were 250cc street cruisers. The Honda Rebel and Suzuki GZ250 were the bikes of choice. (The Rebel is also a 250cc bike.)

These bikes would provide a nice platform for your first bike. The benefits of these bikes include light weight, low seat height, and easy maneuverability. Elena felt very comfortable on the Suzuki. We even practiced picking the bike up off the ground, and she did it with ease (there is a trick to lifting a bike easily).

The thing that Elena really liked about these bikes is that they have the classic cruiser look (chrome and metal), yet they are light and easy to use for a beginner biker.

Additionally, these bikes are nearly bulletproof. The "mules" that we used in class were dropped and abused regularly. But they were surprisingly resilient.

The Honda and Suzuki bikes are also known for their reliability and low cost of ownership--real plusses if you don't want the hassle or cost of repairs.

The first bike that you buy is going to be a learning tool that will go through some ups and downs, so don't buy that super-special bike of your dreams for your first bike. Instead, buy one that will allow you to build confidence and improve your riding ability. The Honda Rebel and Suzuki GZ250 will provide the best balance of looks, reliability, and ease of use.

The importance of a motorcycle safety check-over can never be stressed enough. Not enough riders are aware of how to perform a proper inspection or when to do it. There are two types of safety checks that I recommend. The daily and the bi-weekly check over.

The daily check over is the inspection you give your motorcycle prior to each ride. Before you get on your bike, start with a walkaround inspection. Visually scan the motorcycle for anything out of place. Look for missing hardware, loose components, or broken lenses. This might sound silly, but items frequently loosen and break due to a motorcycles' vibrations. Are the tires visibly low on air? Are there any obstructions in or around the wheels? During the walkaround I always like to squat for a second at each wheel. I consider the tires, wheels, brakes and drivetrain to be the most important parts to check and like to get a closer look at each. Once the walkaround is complete, check the fuel level, and your motorcycle's safety equipment. This should include all lights, switches, turn signals, and horn. Adjust your mirrors, helmet and eye protection. If you have completed all of this you're ready to ride. If you complete this before every ride, you are helping to insure that every ride is a safe ride.

The bi-weekly check over is recommended for the normal daily rider. If you ride more or less, adjust your intervals accordingly. The purpose of this inspection is to monitor normal wear items that may expire or need adjustment between regular services. The most common components are the tires, brakes, drive train, battery and engine oil. Most owners manuals have instructions for checking and adjusting each of these items. If yours doesn't or you need further information purchase a repair manual, a valuable resource for any motorcyclist.

You already visually check your tires before each ride, but now is when you check and adjust the pressures. Use a good quality gauge and while you are down there, look closely for any cracking or bulges. Take note of the remaining tread depth.

Motorcycle brake pads are designed to last as long as normal service intervals. The reality is, the rate of wear depends more on riding style and conditions than a set mileage. It is imperative that they be checked regularly between normal service intervals. For this, grab a bright flashlight and consult your manual for wear specifications.

The typical motorcycle drive train consists of a chain and two sprockets. The sprockets rarely fail between services, but the chain is constantly stretching and in need of lubrication. The motorcycle needs to have it's rear wheel off the ground to properly lube and adjust the chain. With a centerstand or rear stand, a few tools and proper specs., any motorcyclist should be able to service their own chain. In doing this, the life of the chain and sprockets will greatly increase while the chances of failure will decrease.

Most riders assume that their motorcycle charging system maintains the battery sufficiently. Ideally this is true, but its not always the case. The majority of battery usage occurs when starting your motorcycle. Short trips may not always allow your battery enough time to fully recharge. Add in a few accessories like a radio, heated vest or a GPS and your battery may always be lagging. If you are not regularly plugging your motorcycle into a battery tender, consider giving it a charge at this bi-weekly inspection.

All motorcycles consume oil at slightly different rates. It is important to keep an eye on the level. Consult your owners manual for the proper checking procedure. This can vary widely between models.

Finally, make sure you pass inspection as well. Is all of your riding gear in good shape? Is your vehicle registration up to date and your insurance policy current? Proper preparation and a little preventive maintenance can go far in increasing the safety and enjoyment of riding your motorcycle.

There is some great looking motorcycle clothing on the market these days, but believe me not all of the motorcycle clothing offers as much protection as you think. In Europe, for motorcycle clothing to be lawfully sold as “safety" clothing, it has to pass a series of European standards, which are pretty lengthy but are available on my website. The standards cover the clothing’s performance in abrasion, tearing and impact tests, and when they have passed; they are sold with the CE mark. However, no such regulation is available in the USA, so what should you look for?

Protection in the right places…

Not many people realise that most motorcycle injuries occur below the belt. Your legs and feet are extremely vulnerable, so make sure that you wear a decent pair of high boots and some protective pants. The pants should be reinforced at the knees and hips; ideally they should attach to your jacket by a zipper. Boots should be thick leather, with a sole that can flex with the foot but has a resistance to crushing across the foot.

Traditional material for motorcycle clothing is leather, but thick nylon and other synthetic materials work well too. Kevlar reinforced jeans are better than normal jeans .Normal jeans last 0.6 seconds in the European standard abrasion test, while protective motorcycle pants will last 5 seconds or more. You don’t really want to be ripping your skin open within less than half a second of falling of your bike do you? Thought not.

Same principles apply to jackets. Make sure they are hardwearing, if they are leather make sure it is thick leather not fashion leather like some jackets. Stitching should be uniform with no dropped stitches, and all your “sharp bits”, your elbows and shoulders should be reinforced, ideally with some impact protection included.

A decent pair of gloves is a must; your palms will be at risk in an accident; you instinctively put out your hands palm side down to stop yourself in a slide, so the palms of your gloves should be reinforced with patches. Knitted Kevlar is especially good for this kind of abrasion resistance, but reinforced leather works well too.

Impact protection can be bought separately like back protectors and so on, but remember where your most vulnerable areas are. And make sure if you buy impact protection you actually wear it! If you have any doubts it may be better to go for motorcycle clothing with a degree of impact protection included so that you know when you put on your jacket and pants, the protection is always going to be there.

Last but not least, pick out a helmet you can wear and wear it always. You may have a greater chance of getting injured below the waist in a motorcycle accident, but the consequences of being involved in an accident without a helmet just don’t bear thinking about….

So, next time you are shopping for motorcycle clothing, give a bit of thought to the level of protection it offers before you buy it. You never know it could save you a lot of unnecessary pain!